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Delicacies for autumn feasts 秋季美食简介
Suddenshowers, falling leaves and a cooling city again awaken appetites dulled by theheat of summer. It’s autumn, and time to celebrate good food and good companywith some delicious seasonal specialties. Pauline D. Loh and Xu Junqian ferretout the best dishes for the occasion. 突至的阵雨、落叶与降温的城市又一次唤醒了人们因夏天的炎热而迟钝的味蕾。秋天到了，是时候用一些特色时令美食庆祝一下食物丰收和身边人的陪伴了。波林•D•洛和徐君倩为我们觅到了适合这种场合的最佳美食。
Lotus Root 莲藕 TheChinese poet Han Yu (768-824) sang its praises and described it as "sweetas honey, icy as frost, a slice in the mouth heals all sickness". The Qingemperor Qianlong (1711-99) compared it to "the snowy white, slender curvedarm of a beautiful woman". 韩愈对此物给予了极高的评价，赞颂它“冷比霜雪甘比蜜，一片入口沉疴痊”。清朝时，乾隆皇帝更将它与女子的纤纤玉手作比。 Whatthey were extolling, of course, is the humble lotus root, often pointed out asa moral example for "rising above the mud it grows in, untainted andwhite". It is most abundantly harvested in autumn, and has naturallybecome part of the feast for the Mid-Autumn Festival. 当然，他们所赞美的，正是经常作为“出淤泥而不染”的、谦逊的道德模范——莲藕。秋季是莲藕丰收的季节，它也就自然而然地成为了中秋节餐桌上的一道佳肴。 Themost convincing reason for its popularity is the culinary tradition of"eating local, eating seasonal", born out of the belief that food inseason is the best gift from nature. In the case of the lotus root, traditionalChinese medicine claims that the aquatic root vegetable is best for relievingsummer heat and autumn dryness. 说它受欢迎，最具有说服力的理由就是“因时制宜，因地制宜”的饮食传统。这种观点认为当季的食材是自然赐予的礼物。谈到莲藕，传统中医认为水生根茎类植物是祛除夏热秋燥的最佳选择。 Whilethe lotus is widely enjoyed in soups, in sweet and sour stir-fries, cooked withpork ribs, and other countless ways, the dish most popular on tables right aroundthe country about this time is an appetizer, or cold dish: Candied lotus rootstuffed with slow-cooked glutinous rice, and topped with osmanthusjam. 尽管莲藕主要被用来炖汤、做糖醋藕片、藕夹，以及各种形式烹饪，不过在大众餐桌上，当下最受欢迎的做法是把它做成开胃菜，抑或是凉菜：将糖渍过的藕片中塞上用慢火蒸制的糯米，最后抹上桂花酱。 Thiswas once native to the east China area, where sweet-toothed diners likesomething sweet at the beginning of their meal. These days, the dish is popularall over the country, attracting loyal followings with the shiny luster of theosmanthus syrup, its appealing fragrance, and above all, the soft and stickylotus root, cooked to a melt-in-the-mouth mealy texture that contrasts with itsusual crispness. 这道菜曾经是华东地区的甜食爱好者们的餐前开胃甜点。现在，这道菜已经风靡全国。它凭借着闪亮的桂花糖浆和芬芳的香气而受到贵宾们的追捧。更为重要的是，莲藕被蒸制的口感软糯、入口即化，而这与莲藕爽脆的特性是相互矛盾的。 Placesoffering the dish are many, ranging from streetside stalls to fine diningChinese restaurants, not to mention home-made recipes available online. 从路边的大排档到高档中餐馆，这道菜都是餐桌上的常客。在网上找到它的家常做法就更是轻而易举了。 Themost delicious we have eaten, however, comes from Chef David Du’s kitchen atXindalu restaurant, at the Hyatt on the Bund Hotel. 不过，我们所品尝过的最美味的一道是出自外滩凯悦酒店新大陆餐厅的厨师杜大伟之手。 Thedish is heated up in the steamer after the order is placed and so the syrup andOsmanthus honey is melting again on the soft, sticky lotus root, making it aheart-warming dish during this unexpectedly early autumn. 这道菜在放凉之后，经过再次上锅蒸制，糖浆和桂花蜜又一次融化，覆盖在软糯的莲藕上，使它成为了这个颇为突兀的早秋时节里一道暖心的菜品。
Taro and Duck芋头和鸭肉 Ifmashed potatoes and turkey is the signature pairing in the AmericanThanksgiving meal, then taro and duck can be said to best represent theMid-Autumn meal in Shanghai. Duck and taro are common enough ingredients allover China, and in the professional and private kitchens, there have beencountless recipes developed with these. 如果说土豆泥和火鸡是美国感恩节标志性的大餐，那么芋头和鸭肉就最能代表上海在中秋节时的美食了。在中国，鸭子和芋头是十分普遍的食材，而且无论在大小厨房，他们的做法数不胜数。 Thesoup-loving Cantonese stew them together for a slow-cooked broth, which,according to the principles of traditional Chinese medicine, will moisten thedryness of the body in autumn. In east China’s Yangtze River region, it becomesmuch simpler. 酷爱喝汤的广东人，根据传统中医秋季增湿去燥的理论，将这两种食材一同放入砂锅慢慢煲制。而在长江以东地区，做法则更为简便。 Thetaro is skinned, cut and stir-fried with scallion and salt, and cooked withduck, which may have been bought from a deli nearby. The most popular is theNanjing salted duck, whose tender white meat is fatty but not greasy. Thesalted duck’s fame has gone far beyond the capital city of Jiangsu province andmade it to the tables of neighboring cities like Shanghai and Hangzhou. 芋头去皮，切块，辅以葱花和盐炒熟，再与从附近便利店购买的鸭子一同烹制。最受欢迎的鸭肉菜肴是南京盐水鸭，其原因是这种鸭子的白肉肥而不腻。盐水鸭的名声早已冲出江苏省会并成功挤入上海、杭州等城市的餐桌。 Althoughit is available all year around, the autumn birds are considered the best, asconnoisseurs believe that the ducks of this season are naturally scented withthe sweet aroma of osmanthus flowers. To enhance that belief, some delis simplyseason their ducks with osmanthus. 尽管这道菜全年供应，但通常认为秋季的鸭子为最佳。因为美食鉴赏家们觉得这个时令的鸭子会自然散发出桂花的香气。为了提高这种说法的可信度，有些便利店会用桂花来给鸭子简单调味。 Innorthern China, taro is often boiled, peeled and dipped into sugar, eaten as astaple in place of rice or noodles. And in the north of the country, the famousroasted duck reigns supreme on the dining table. 在我国北方，芋头通常被煮熟，剥皮，然后蘸上白糖当作代替米饭和面条的主食；而且在北方，在餐桌上占据绝对主导地位的，就是最著名的烤鸭了。 Themost complicated "matchmaking" is crispy duck wrapped in mashed taro,a century-old recipe from Chaoshan cuisine, an off-shoot of Cantonese cookingfamous for its deceptively meat-like vegetarian dishes. The Hong Kong-trainedchefs from Li Xuan, arguably the best Chaoshan restaurant in Shanghai, tell usthat it takes a minimum of three hours for preparing and cooking this duck. 这二者最为复杂的“联姻”是芋泥脆鸭卷。这道菜是一道有着百年历史的老菜。它源自潮汕菜系。潮汕菜是粤菜的一个分支，讲究素菜荤做。在丽轩——全上海最正宗的潮汕菜餐厅中，训练有素的厨师们告诉我们，制作这道鸭肉菜肴至少要准备三个小时。 But,the time invested is a guarantee of its delicious quotient. The best taro comesfrom the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, where the climate and soil nurturean especially firm but smooth textured taro from the district of Lipu. It isoften paired with the short-necked rice duck from Guangdong province, a birdthat has plenty of meat but relatively less fat. But the most important secretlies in the temperature of the oil for frying the taro. If the cook is skilled,the result is a firm and fluffy fried roll with juicy duck meat inside and acrispy covering of mashed taro outside. The golden roll is a real treat –satisfying the eyes, the lips, the palate and the stomach. 然而，时间的投入是对其美味的保证。最好的芋头产自广西壮族自治区的荔浦，那里的气候和土壤，培育出了不会碎裂、肉质绵软的芋头。它经常与广东地区的短颈稻鸭互相搭配，那是一种肉质肥嫩，却几乎不含脂肪的鸭子。不过，制作这道菜最重要的秘诀在于油炸芋头时的油温。有经验的厨师会将芋饼炸得酥脆，里面的鸭肉鲜嫩多汁，整个鸭肉卷质地紧实，但口感松软。这道金黄色的肉卷的确是一种馈赠——无论从视觉、触觉、还是味觉层面上来说。
翻译：洛克T 校对：小布 终校：小郭 树屋字幕组-文翻组 翻译仅供学习交流，严禁用于商业用途
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发表于 2015-8-18 11:08:09
