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Before the Mayflower: America’s Birth place 五月花前：美国的诞生地 “Is it real or is it fake?” is a frequent query of travelers exploring historic sites around the world. Of course, “real” is far more intriguing than a reproduction–being able to stare at ruins and picture the vitality they once played host to. I felt this way at Angkor Wat, in Jordan, at Machu Picchu, and, surprisingly, at Historic Jamestowne, walking the same ground as Captain John Smith and Pocahontas. “这个是真的还是假的？”当旅客们探索世界各地的历史遗迹时，免不了这样频繁的询问。毕竟，真货要比赝品来的吸引人----人们凝视古迹，构想着它们曾经被用来接客时的夺目光彩。我在柬埔寨的吴哥窟、在约旦、在秘鲁的马丘比丘时，都有这样的感受，更令我惊讶的是，当我在詹姆斯敦历史纪念馆时，我觉得自己仿佛和约翰·史密斯 船长，波卡洪塔斯共涉于同一片大地之上。
Part of the reason the site is so astounding is that the grounds of the fort, where the first English settlers landed in 1607 to form what became America’s first permanent English settlement, were thought to have washed away in the James River. For hundreds of years, Jamestown Island was sleepy farmland–except, ironically, for brief periods during the American Revolution and Civil War when it was utilized for military purposes. 第一批英国殖民者曾于1607年登陆这座要塞，也是在这里，英国殖民者建立了他们在美洲的第一个殖民地。但人们一直认为这座要塞早已被詹姆士河吞没了。这也是这座古迹如此震撼人心的部分原因。比较讽刺的是，除了在美国独立战争和南北内战时期曾被用于军事用途以外。几百年来，詹姆斯敦岛一直都是无人问津的农田。
But in 1994，Dr.William Kelso and his team at the Jamestown Rediscovery Project realized that it had not completely disappeared, mostly thanks to a protective sea wall added in 1901. At this point in their research, the team–which uses a mix of historical record, archaeology, and science to piece together the story–has determined that only about 13 percent of the original fort has been lost to time. 但在1994年。负责重寻詹姆斯敦项目的威廉·卡尔索博士和他的团队发现这个要塞并没有完全消失。这得益于一所1901年加造的护岸海堤墙。他们通过一些历史记载、建筑学和科技方法把这些故事拼凑在一起，然后确定只有13%的要塞在历史长河中被损毁了。
Usually archaeologists are far removed from the public eye, working in roped-off areas in remote places. But here, anyone can get close to the fort’s remains–and to the team that’s responsible for making some of the great discoveries of our time. 一般情况下，考古学家们总是远离大众的视线，工作于偏远的被警戒线隔开的地区。但是在这里，任何人都可以亲眼见到要塞遗址——亲眼目睹这个做出了在这个时代堪称伟大发现的团队。
You can go beyond the ropes and into the foundations of the fort with Dr. Kelso himself on an “In The Trenches” tour, offered twice a month at $40 a pop. But don’t count out the daily tours included in the price of admission, with archaeologists like Mary Anna Richardson and Dave Givens revealing the behind-the-scenes scoop about the latest learnings. 你可以越过绳索并跟随凯尔索本人进入堡垒根基进行一次“第一线”游览，游览每个月两次，每人40美元。和像玛丽安娜理查森和戴夫吉文斯这样的考古学家一起揭示最新研究中的幕后特讯吧，但是别指望日常游览中包含入场费。
“Things in your past can define you, but people don’t generally wear them on their sleeve,” Givens told me. “We try to tell a story through artifacts, and we’re in a very unique position compared to other sites. Archaeology allows you to go back and step into people’s lives as opposed to just reading a document.” “过去的事情可以揭示如今的你，但是人们通常不会将这些表露出来，”吉文斯告诉我。 “我们试图通过文物来讲述一个故事，而且相比其他遗址我们正处在一个非常独特的位置。考古学可以让你可以回到过去真实地步入过去人们的生活，而不是仅仅阅读文件。“
The Archaearium at Historic Jamestowne is all about reality, warts and all. Some of the museum’s exhibits feature relics that shed light on the darkest moments of the settlement’s early days–including the skeletal remains of “Jane,” which many believe proved that the colonists resorted to cannibalism in the winter of 1609. After viewing the skull, which had been found, discarded carelessly in a cellar, in 2013, I was told it was “clear from the beginning that she was processed to be eaten.” 詹姆斯敦历史纪念馆中的考古博物馆完全是对史实的再现。博物馆里的一些展品以展示早期黑暗殖民时期的遗物为特色，其中包括“简”的骨骼残骸，许多人认为这是在1609年的冬天，殖民者依靠残食同类留下的证据。在仔细检查了这块2013年发现的被丢弃在地下室的头骨后，我明确地得出了这是“她是被吃掉的”的证据。
The bones may be a grisly reminder of a heartbreaking time in early American history, but what we’ve learned from studying them represents a moving example of how modern technology and archaeology can come together to reveal secrets from the past. Through cutting-edge scientific testing, they were able to determine which region of England she came from, that she had wheat in her diet, and what she probably looked like. She’s young, despondent, and beautiful. 这些骸骨将提醒我们记起美国早期那段可怕的历史。但我们从研究这些骸骨中所学到的东西表明现代技术和考古能完美结合到一起来揭露过去的秘密。通过尖端的科学测试，他们能够确定她是从英格兰哪个地方来的，她的饮食中含有谷物，她大概长什么样子。她很年轻，虽然有些沮丧，但这丝毫不掩她的美丽。
A five-minute drive away from the authentic fort is the Jamestown Settlement, where you’ll find a reconstructed version of the fort and colonial life, along with scale models of the English ships that brought the colonists across the Atlantic (which are especially great if you have younger kids). Both sites are worth visiting, but Historic Jamestowne is exhilarating brain food, especially if you join one of the tours. 詹姆斯敦殖民地距离真正的要塞约有五分钟的车程，那里重建了要塞和殖民地生活场景，还有满载着横跨大西洋的英国殖民者的船舰仿真模型（如果你带了小孩子，这将是一件很棒的事）。两处遗址都值得参观，但詹姆斯敦历史纪念馆是令人振奋的精神食粮 (特别是参加团队游时)。
After the statehouse at Jamestowne burned for the second time (you can see the foundation ruins through glass in the Archaearium) during Bacon’s Rebellion in the late 1600s, the Virginia Colony moved its capital moved to Williamsburg, then called Middle Plantation. Jamestown was eventually abandoned and the site where it once stood reverted to unsuspecting farmland. 在17世纪末的培根暴动期间，詹姆斯敦的州议会议场被第二次烧毁（在考古博物馆里，你可以透过玻璃看到地基的遗迹）弗吉尼亚殖民地迁都至威廉斯堡，当时称为中央种植园。詹姆斯敦最终被抛弃，而它曾经的所在地也沦落为了毫无戒备的农田。
In stark contrast to the grim realities on display at Historic Jamestowne, Colonial Williamsburg pays peaceful homage to 18th-century hustle and bustle. It’s clear that painstaking attention has been paid to detail in the homes and businesses in Merchant’s Square; the goods being sold there are even based on real estate records and diaries in an effort to stay as true to history as possible. 与在詹姆斯敦历史纪念馆展出的严酷现实形成鲜明的对比的是，威廉斯堡殖民地的居民对十八世纪的喧嚣与纷扰却表示顺从。很明显，全部的注意力已经被用于处理家里琐碎的事和在商业广场的生意上了；被卖出的物品甚至有基于房地产的记录和日记，以尽可能保持真实的历史。
With 88 original structures, and yes, people dressed in period garb, the colonial district is both enchanting and enlightening. One couple I met said they visit in order to unwind. “The word that kept crossing our mind was relaxing,” they said. “It’s just such a relaxing place to be.” 正因为有着88座原始的建筑物，人们穿戴着那个年代的装束，威廉斯堡殖民区显得既迷人，又富有启发性。我遇见的一对夫妇说，他们参观这里是为了放松身心。 “我们不断听见的那些话语让人感到很舒缓”，他们说， “这实在是一个让人放松的地方。”
While the right tour guide can make history come alive, you’ll find the most relaxing way to go back in time at The Spa at Colonial Williamsburg. Here is where I didn’t want the history part of what they termed a “historical spa treatment” taken too literally, attached, as I am, to running water and modern medicine. This spa delivers with beautiful facilities and a slate of offerings that incorporate healing techniques from the 17th to the 21st centuries. I figured “When in Rome,” and opted for an 18th-century treatment featuring orange and ginger, elements used to relax tense muscles and and increase blood flow at the time (hey, they were ahead of their time). 尽管合适的导游可以让历史栩栩如生地重现，但你会发现，体验历史的最好方式就是去一趟威廉斯堡殖民地的SPA馆。我不希望“古风温泉疗”这样一个极有历史韵味的一部分被望文生义地与自来水和现代医疗联系在了一起，尽管一开始我也这么做了。这间SPA提供美丽的温泉设施和漂亮的石板，与从17世纪到21世纪的温泉理疗技术完美结合在了一起。我想着要“入乡随俗”，就选择了一套以橙和姜为主打的，用来放松紧张肌肉、增强血液循环的18世纪温泉理疗（嘿，这比当时的要先进）。
During the self-indulgent hours I spent at the spa, I started thinking about just how much we take for granted in modern times. I also felt a sense of gratitude to the scientists and academics working to uncover the real Jamestowne, a physical reminder of a lost time, and made it into the accessible and very alive place it is today. 当我放纵地享受水疗的时候，我开始思考，生活在现代的我们到底把多少当成了理所应当。我也感谢科学家和学者们的努力合作，以揭开真正詹姆斯敦的面纱——它提醒我们回忆那一段消逝的时光，也感谢他们把这里变成了一个触手可及、活力四射的地方。
翻译：Kelsey Urban 校对： 塔塔 小潮 总监 : 小潮 副总监 :攸宁 树屋字幕组-文翻组 翻译仅供学习交流，严禁用于商业用途 PDF下载：
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发表于 2014-12-19 22:47:32
